The ten Desert Traverse Journal
8 July 19
Rode from Mildura to Burra. All bitumen. Tested range – 1 tank, 14 litres = 290km. 20.7km per litre
Had a minor oil leak coming from the timing port plug. Pulled into Renmark Yamaha, fixed it with super glue. Apparently, it’s not affected by oil and petrol. Sweet!
9 July 19
Burra to Merna Mora station
Slow day, very cold morning, frost and ice on everything. Met Simon, nice guy, also travelling solo and driving to raise awareness for cancer (Dings tour for a cure). Rode on, in the afternoon, sheep on the road everywhere. Lots of road kill. Could smell the rotten flesh in the air more than see it. Pulled into Merna Mora station and got a room. Prepped bike for Birdsville track. Cable tied spokes together to help with corrugations and rattling loose.
10 July Day 1
Merna Mora to camping on the Birdsville track.
Rode on northward. Got to Marree around lunch and had a good feed. Felt my stomach in knots, check and re check everything. This is it! From here it is all desert! Started onto the Birdsville Track and into the first desert approx. 1pm (UTC+9.5 – 0430). First desert camp just south of Mungerannie Road house. Feeling alone, unsure, what have I got myself into? Managed 24km per litre of fuel. Crossed over the Tirari and Strezlecki Deserts.
11 July Day 2
Rode northward and completed the rest of the Birdsville track. Very isolated, very few cars.
Made it to Birdsville late. Went straight to the pub for dinner. Ate, then rode into the wetlands where everyone free camps. Rode into a big bog hole and the bike sunk in to its axles. People came over to help me pull it out. Bike an me totally covered in mud. Made camp, slept in swampy clothes. Stunk like wet mouldy duck shit. Crossed the Sturt Stoney Desert enroute to Birdsville.
12 July Day 3
Up early, tent dripping with moisture. Found town wash down bay. Was bore water so very warm and pleasant to wash with. Stuff it I thought and stripped off as I washed my bike down. First wash in a few days. Was a welcome one. People toot their horns as they pass. Funny sight to see, I guess. Spent the day packing, getting supplies, servicing bike. Nervous, very nervous. Rode out to Big red in the afternoon lots of people out there getting ready for the Big red bash. Bike is fully loaded, super heavy; food, fuel 38 litres, water 12 litres. Heaviest it has been. Unloaded it and test rode 2-3 km empty across the first dunes, they are big! Sand soft big red is big, and red. Set camp at the base of the second dune, incredible sunset. Ready for a big day tomorrow. Entered the Simpson Desert.
On top of big red at sunset
13 July day 4
Up before the sun. on the top of the second dune to brew a coffee and watch the sun rise. Peaceful. Had to walk my gear up and reload the bike – a taste of life for the next few days. No more fear and anxiety. All the hard work is done, now it’s time to just get into it and focus on the job.
Hard work with a fully loaded bike. Tough day. Lots of pushing up dunes. Bike very thirsty. Had an 80km detour around Eyre Creek due to swollen banks. Walked all my gear across, wet boots for the rest of the day. Managed 170km for the day. Pulled up with 3 fingers of sun left on the horizon – new rule set. No riding after 3 fingers. Slept like the dead.
14 July day 5
Woke early, sore tired stiff. Cold night, boots still wet. First hour feet were numb. Realised I had hardly eaten the day before, didn’t stop for lunch. Was not feeling the fun at all today. Kept stopping trying to rehydrate and playing catch up on energy. Managed only 100km. Met Murphy; young kid walking across the Simpson for charity. Wants to join the army. His parents gave me some ready eat meals to help me along.
Stopped more and more as day wore on. Doubt wanders into my mind. I am out of my league here. Can’t go back, too tired to go forward, really tired.
Met some people at poppels corner, nice people, the re filled my rotopax for me. very grateful, but now bike is heavy again.
Suddenly bike decided it won’t start. A moment of panic. What the hell am I doing here? Finally realise stand is down and in gear. Dick head Brundin! Get on with it.
Doubled my dinner rations and hoped for a better day tomorrow.
New rule: eat when the shadows are off the track.
15 July Day 6
Really cold night, ice on tent. Shivered in the night. The desert is really testing me. started with a full belly, but dunes got harder and harder along the French line as the day wore on. Lots of turns at base so lost a lot of momentum, lots of pushing bike in sand. Saddle bag broke open, lost the last of my water somewhere. Unloaded bike and went back to find it 5-6 km away. Pushed bike up countless dunes. Pinched extra water from 4x4s. only saw 4 after 2pm. Got some raw eggs of one and these pepped me up for a good 20-30 minutes. Hardest day by far. Got to Dalhousie springs at dusk. Freezing night but water of the hot springs was blissful. Like god had motorbike riders in mind when he put them there. 3 full days crossing the Simpson. 36 litres of fuel used.
16 July day 7
Slow start today, long soak again in the hot springs. My muscles are grateful for the heat. Easy ride to Oodnadatta, grabbed a beer and T-bone steak. First meal was so good I grabbed another one straight away. Crossed the Pedirka desert on the way through. Only very small. Met a couple of old lads in the pub and got news whilst eating my third T-bone that my Guinness World Record GWR attempt had been approved. Time to start getting serious. Collecting evidence.
Howard Parslow 04189*****
John Hindson *****06955
Garry McGrice 04*****08
17 July Day 8
Left Oodnadatta and travelled south to Coober Pedy -CP
Rest up, got resupply from post office I had sent weeks earlier. Spent arvo going over bike, repacking gear re fuel etc. was fully loaded. Dry food weight 6kg, 21 l water, 46l fuel. Tools camping, panniers etc 34 kg.
Dinner at pub alone, couldn’t eat, real nerves kicking in now. not much known about the GVD and the Anne beadell. Physical torment awaits if its anything like the Simpson.
18 July day 9 into the Great Victoria Desert.
Woke early, on edge, checked and rechecked. Really nervous. Saw a priest in the street at the post office and asked him to say a prayer for me. Crazy I know. We stood in the street together and recited our father prayer. I couldn’t even remember it from my childhood years. Dirt road out from CP managed 200km for the day. Happy to get the bladders half emptied. No traffic on track. Knew Slip had gone through 13 days earlier on his bike, can still see his tracks in the sand. Camped alone; desert not too cold. Saw one car for the day.
19 July Day 10
Out early and rode all day. The sand started getting deeper. Big holes opened up in the track where the Mulga trees crowd in. learnt to slow down when the bush changed like this. Rode through an old section of dead bush, bush fire had destroyed land and life never returned. Felt eerie lots of death. Didn’t feel welcome. Felt eerie. Rode all day. Saw a set of 2 cars in the late arvo heading east also.
Ben and Amanda Pratt Esperance WA 042818****
Toby and Anna Dhue 0***86 Esperance
Tobey and Lynden Bostock 04218****4 Dubbo
Daryl 0405****02 Sydney
20 July Day11
Long day today. Woke very stiff, sore. Problems started early. Hit a tree and crushed 1.5 litre water. That’s 6 hours of life. All alone out here. Doubt and unrest creeps in. The tree was a good hit. A close call. Frightening. Filled camel back to divide water, then lost hose nipple whilst riding. 12 hours of life, gone out the hose. Shit!
Kept going, wind picked up, sand blew track clean. My tracks gone, Slips tracks gone. I’m all alone. Noticed water leaking from saddle bag. Shit!
Fixed problem had lost 20 hours of life before lunch time. Got over the border late in the day. Pushed hard to get to Ilkurlka road house. Arrived in the dusk. Care taker Rob took one look at me and offered me the spare bed in his cabin. Ate a simple dinner with him then sleep. 780 km 41 litres fuel used. No cars today.
21 July Day 12
Treated myself to a sleep in. washed clothes in camp area and dried by a fire.
Checked over bike and found chain slider had chewed through. Fixed issue with some rubber and liquid nails. Met Andy the truck driver; he was dropping off fuel for the outpost. Gave me his card incase I got stuck on the CSR.
Took off late, made it to Neal Junction; 200km corrugations approx. Good camp- previous campers left pile of fire wood for me, beautiful bush. Feel at peace tonight. No cars on road today.
22 July D13 into the Gibson Desert
Hard day, very hard emotionally. Track was tough. Backing up from the Anne Beadell, my body was screaming at me. didn’t quite get to Warburton; less than 300km.
Corrugations caused my hands to go numb. Tight bush tears at my knuckles. Hit branch hard, thought I broke my finger, but ok. Huge wash outs open up. Dodging bullets on the Connie Sue. Couldn’t get into a rhythm, always stop, start, dodge, deter, grit, wince. Track very unpredictable, dangerous. Worst day yet. Coldest night. Tomorrow I get to Warburton, half way point. Only half way! FML! Why do I do this to my body? Who in their right mind would ever do this? For what? Scared for life moving forward, what next Brundin?
Write books mate, share your story and inspire people. That is your groove!
No cars again, getting used to my own company.
23 July D14 morning feeling sore. Wrote down the following sit rep.
· 5 days on pegs
· 3 days no cars
· Muscles sore
· Back and traps sore from heavy pack – 15 kg
· Feet, palms blistered
· Hard work
· Freezing night, shivered all night
· Hands have pins and needles, lost feeling in 3 fingers on right hand
· Feel my clothes getting bigger losing weight.
· No human contact, bike has been tortured, how can it keep going?
· Only half way.
I chose this life. I wanted this life, this challenge. My friends and family told me I was crazy. That it can’t be done. Who do I think I am? Pure insanity, no one has ever done it!
Yet I spent the money, I persevered with it. Love or hate, it’s up to me. I can go home any time. Win or lose, live or die, it’s all on me. love this trip or hate it. All depends on how I perceive it.
Rode out once again, met a couple camping not far up the track.
Stan and Joe O’Hehir 0****5794
Refuelled at Warburton Rd house. Not much there, just small aboriginal community. Ate 3 bacon and egg muffins. 2 snickers. Headed west to the Heather Highway. And onto the Gun Barrell Hwy.
No other cars all day. Into the Gibson Desert now. tired in the arvo made camp alone. Good wood easy fire. Got a puncture in air mattress. Lucky, I had a repair kit. Lots of rock, lots of gravelly corrugations.
Saw the Len Beadell monument and decided to ride my bike up, steep, rocky ascent. Nearly flipped the bike, stupid move, very remote, no need to go up. New rule; don’t deviate from the plan Brundin. Do not add additional risk.
24 July Day 15
Started out early, kit packed, and bike checked over with the sun only two fingers up. Rode on and got to Geraldton Bore early. Decided to have a bath; first one since leaving CP 7 days earlier. No sooner had I redressed, Fiona and Les drove in. I laughed seeing as I hadn’t seen a car in days, and they pulled in just as I was buttoning my shirt up.
Fiona: 042*****4
Rode on, track improved immensely not long after. Sat on 100kmh all the way to Carnegie station.
Set camp there, decided to stay the night. Met Jim and Chris the camp hosts; they were spending a few months there but from Koo Wee Rup in Vic. Fuel consumption remained the same; 20km per litre. Onto Wiluna tomorrow and the Canning Stock Route (CSR)
25 July D16
After a few beers with the mustering crew, they convinced me that staying on for an extra day and going out mustering was a good idea.
Up early before the sun for breakfast and bike prep. Left mine in camp and took out a little Suzuki 250.
Had a great day out, lots of fun riding through the untamed bush and into dune country. Watching the chopper drive the cattle toward us and riding out to bring the strays in. was great to have that experience; the kind of life I would have loved to live as a younger guy. Priceless to taste that lifestyle. A childhood dream lived. Beers with the crew in the afternoon after mustering over 200head of cattle.
Minor repairs on my bike in the afternoon, chain slider was worn through, used a piece of old fan belt to replace missing section.
Locky, Daniel, Jordan – biker crew. Spencer station owner.
26 July D17
Left Carnegie early, rode 370km to Wiluna. Met Andrew Robbins (0***716282) and Richard on their adventure bikes at the Gun Barrel turn off.
Not much in Wiluna – shithole.
Picked up resupply at post office and headed back out to Gun barrel Larger. Serviced bike in their workshop. Spoke with other travellers who had finished the CSR. “the dunes are massive. The track is chopped up. You need a support vehicle. You can’t do it alone. It’s too dangerous.” Take their concerns on board. Listen politely. But don’t feel same angst and fear as I did before crossing the Simpson or the Great Vic. Know I can do this one. The ‘monster’ has been beaten. Tomorrow it’s onto the CSR; the Western Deserts, and the final leg of this adventure.
27 July D18 The Western Deserts and the Canning Stock Route
Slept like a baby in a real bed. Allowed myself to sleep in. packed 10-day resupply of food into bike and rechecked over bike all ok. Headed out onto the CSR and lost sunnies almost immediately. Blessing in disguise as I was forced to wear goggles. Within a few km a branch speared me in the eye and deflected away. If sunnnies were on would have been bad news.
Feeling no fear fat all, just know I have ten hard days in front of me. feel bored with it almost. All sandy, all rocky, dried creek beds; all feels familiar now. bike is fully loaded. Very heavy, very hard work, slow going. Met first travellers on the track heading north also. Will Hort 042***1233 and his wife? Camped solo, very tired after big day. Get this done Brundin. This is a job now. get it done write the book. Do it!
28 July D19
Took of early from Windich springs, met other travellers in the Little Sandy Desert.
Peter and Marcia Eiriebenow of Townsville just north of well 8 04***13265.
Hard day on the bike, very tired very heavy. Track was rocky, very twisty yet again, can’t get rhythm. Very frustrating. Then later in the day the dunes started; stupid approach with sharp turns at the base, lose speed, momentum. Tired, came off, dropped bike a few times. Cursed out loud. Had to push bike up quite a few. Was pissed off!
Saw another group a 3 4x4s late in the day. Could have camped with them but didn’t want the company. Exhausted, pushed onto well 13. Made camp, made a fire. Just exhausted. Only 2 days in and can’t think straight. Cheryl and Ray drove past after the sun had set. Unusual to be driving so late. Quick chat took one look at me and decided to stay with me.
These people saved me. offered me a hot shower. A real meal with vegetables, a cup of tea. A bloody god send. Now as I write this, its morning and Cheryl has cooked bacon and 2 eggs for me. moral is boosted!! Will be a slow start today as minor repairs needed to bike. But good company and warm fire = happy days.
29 July D20 in the desert.
Slow start, rode further north, days are getting warmer. Chain slider is holding up ok. Met some travellers along the way, stopped into Debra springs and met the outback spirit tour who offered me lunch and some fruit. Kiwi Jeff is a good bloke. The punters all interested in my story. Made camp at well 18. Met Cory and Kylie, washed at the well and had dinner – thanks to Cheryl insisting on me taking extra. Cory can’t believe I am out here solo.
Cory and Kylie from Tasmania 04282*** laoana71@gmail.com
Marla Nightingale Triangle Flat NSW 0448***33 hook.mn@gmail.com
Robyn and Tony Pratt robytt@bigpond.com********467284
Darryn White 0409 659 358 fb dazfrom taz
30 July D21
left well 18 after meeting Robyn, Tony and Marla also. Everyone loves what I am doing out here. People just can’t believe I am in the middle of nowhere solo and ask so many questions; feel inspired to keep going. Rode well today, dunes getting bigger, bike getting lighter, all fuel out of bladders now. got out the Parnngurr community but shop shut so rode out 10km approx. and camped in the bush. Had a good fire. Spoiled myself and used one of my 1.5 litre water bottles to wash off with. Dried off over the flames. Feeling good. Made a cam diary, reflected on the past few days. The people I had met.
DON’T GO BACK TO YOUR OLD LIFE FROM HERE BRUNDIN! YOU HAVE MORE TO OFFER THE WORLD THAN ROOFING! LOOK WHAT YOU HAVE DONE OUT HERE. LOOK WHOS LIVES YOU CAN CHANGE. BE BETTER! BE YOUR BEST FROM NOW ON!
31 July D22 in the desert.
Re fuelled at Parngurr. 39.5 litres used from Wiluna 850km approx.
Stopped into the school, met Ian the community coordinator and Prem the School Principal. Happy for me to do a short talk with the kids about the ride and mindset etc. the kids loved it and a lot of the trouble kids were engaging.
Prem invited me to stay in the spare house set aside for other teachers. Invited me to go bush with the kids. Might take that opportunity.
Dr Prem Mudhan and Dr Jennifer
48 Collingwood street Dianella
Prem **** 729
Jen 0429 ****
1 Aug Day 23
Spent the day out bush with the kids. Had a great time looking for witchedy grubs and building shelters. Shared some dehydrated meals with them and flew the drone, building relationships. Prem and his wife Jen offered me a job with the school as a mentor for the rest of the year. What an opportunity!
Was a great experience and new doors present themselves moving forward. Would tie the end of the year in perfectly with the new book etc. rode out to Georgia bore and made camp there.
2 Aug. Day 24 into the Great Sandy Desert
Hard day, very hard. Track no different from any other day. Sandy, rocky, tight. Hands busted up again from dead branches. Saddle bags are only just holding on, more cable ties than stitching now. Worn out. Now it’s all mental from here Brundin. Stay alert, stay positive tomorrow. Bike will do it. Body will do it. Now it’s all mental.
Only 160 km done today. Will work out what is next and break it down chunk by chunk.
3 Aug. day 25
Good day on the bike. Lots of travellers on the northern end of the CSR. Got to Kunawarritji community no problem. Only 350 from Parnngurr. Refuelled all bladders for the final assault on the CSR. Met the owners of the general store Taz and Tish- they had heard about me. ‘You’re the crazy guy on the bike!’ gave me a big discount on fuel and the supplies I bought. Got pics loved the story. Camped at well 33 lots of people to chat with.
Taz and Tish kunawarritji@bigpond.com
4 Aug. day 26
Good day of riding, lots of sand dunes. Bladders almost in so will be better tomorrow. Saw Will Hort briefly, had a bite to eat with him and his wife. Whole convoy of 10+ 4x4s passed me and all waving and calling my name. they had all heard of me. Some stopped to get photos and shake my hand. ‘What an epic trip mate!’
Wanted to push for 200km and get too well 40. Going too quick, over shot a dune and hit a rock on the bash plate hard.
Came off in the evening, only slow speed off but rocked me. broke my own rule; riding on sunset. If I had hurt myself it would have been a very long night in the desert alone with the wild dogs. Don’t break the rules out here!
Set camp, played music into the night. More music lately and a lot less filming. Focusing on being present, instead of trying to capture the moments for others. Made camp at well 40.
Lots of dogs and wildlife around tent throughout the night.
5 August 2019 day 27 in the desert
Someone is looking out for me!! best day on the bike of the whole trip! Left well 40 after doing all pre-ride checks. Rode 27km to well 41. Something felt off on bike so decided to stop, repack weigh and do a filter change. Met a big convoy there. All 4x4s and bike riders also. They loved that I was solo and excited to chat. Had a wash with well water and chatted whilst changing filter on right side of bike. Was distracted so didn’t check over left side. Big Unimog in convoy, its owner didn’t come over to chat as he was repairing a flat.
Finished repacking gear. And wanted to go over and say hi and get pic with truck.
Met owner Steve and Carol. Steve a mechanic and bike rider took one look at my bike and said, ‘Not going to get far without that mate.’ Looked down and nut that holds the frame and engine mount bolt in place had worked off. If bolt had come out whilst riding, bike would have fallen in half and me straight over the bars. Game over!
Had more nuts than Bunnings in his Uni both metric and imperial and wasn’t long before he found the one that was the right size. M14 fine thread?
I couldn’t believe my luck, what were the odds of that? I hugged him and rod over and over, ‘You boys have saved my life, you saved it 100%, Jesus loves me! Jesus loves me!’
They laughed. Rode with the convoy all day, taking my time. New appreciation for life. camped with them that night.
John Middleton
Steve and carol
Rod and Jude
Wal and Anne
Peter and Andrew who also did some droning for me
Johnno, Mal and John
Peter the poet had us all laughing around the camp fire at night. Red emperor and roast potatoes and coleslaw salad for dinner. Carol just kept piling my plate up.
Hot shower! Scones for dessert, Blueberry damper. Best day ever!! Must send them a copy of my book. Porridge for breakky the next morning and photos together. Feeling great as I packed camp. Might even finish the CSR this morning J
6 August D28
Big day on the bike. Over 250km. going hard, too hard. Passed Will and Loraine again – from well 1. Was good to see them, first people I met, and almost the last. Was tearing across the dunes all day. Nearly had a head on with a jeep. Stopped at well 49 to have a quick wash and eat. Was on a mission, didn’t want to chat to people there too long. For people going south, it’s their first day here, they are full of excitement. Old guy stops to chat, he got lost at the turn off to well 49, wishes he had a better map. Asks my thoughts on taking a GPS. His white beard is fresh clipped and well groomed. His crisp safari shirt freshly ironed. His little old Asian wife takes selfies at the well as we chat. I can see in his eyes what he is thinking, I look like I just rode out of hell. I am short with him as I scrub my face and pour water straight down my jacket front.
‘How far you going mate?’
‘All the way young man.’
‘Best to wait for another convoy. You just won’t make it alone. You’re not prepared, you have no gear. The track will have you mate. I gotta go. Good luck’
‘Can we get a photo?’
‘Take it as I am leaving, see ya.’
Rode on hard all afternoon. Washed out in the corrugations before well 51 as the sun was low. 4thgear wide open. Rattles me. hurts me. bends my paniers up. Dust and tears everywhere. Got to Well 51 with a limp and bloodshot eyes. I made it, just. Ended up putting to Stretch lagoon where I met Faith and Dave Smith 0427831219, 0409580357
23 Anne street Charter Towers QLD met earlier on track round day 3ish
Quick dinner, and dead sleep.
7 August, D29 crossing into the Tanami Desert.
Rode into Bililuna, refuelled. Store keeper wanted photos of me and bike. ‘what an accomplishment!!’
Rode out to wolf creek crater. Stood on the rim and got the pic. For me, that was it, I had visualised that moment a thousand times the hard stuff was over. I had done it! Felt pretty special. Sore, tired, dusty I had just ridden the entire CSR and the worst Australia could throw at me. rode out down the Tanami road. Camped in the desert. Sat and let it soak in what I had just gone through. Big cheesy grin on my face all night.
8 August D30 The Tanami desert
Up early and on bike by 7 am. Crossed the West Aust. Border at 738am (UTC+8 - 2338) and decided this was a good landmark to record the finish line and the completion of the ten-desert crossing.
10 July - Started onto the Birdsville Track and into the first desert approx. 1pm (UTC+9.5 – 0430).
7 August - Crossed the West Aust. Border at 738am (UTC+8 - 2338)
Total time elapsed – 29 days, 5 hours 8 minutes. Record set.
Rode on for a few more hours and got flat rear. Changed on the side of the road. Travellers stopped to help. Bad split. Had to nurse down the road, got another 20 km. and blew again. Rode on a flat tire all the way to Newmont Gold Mine. HR lady Peta took one look at me and at my bike and arranged for me to get a room and a shower. Was put up in the bosses accom. So very fancy. Then free food in the mess. I at two dinners and took a big plate of desert to my fridge.
Then into the wet mess. Miners had heard I was in and that I had just come out of the desert. No shortage of bike riders, questions and beers. You couldn’t pick a better place to break down. Tomorrow, ride into Alice Springs with Oscar the Road Train Driver.
Expedition stats and interesting facts.
· Fuel average – 20km per litre
· Highest cost – $3.6 per litre
· Bike weight factory 117kg
· Loaded with me on it – 355kg approx. (me 85kg approx.)
· Time in desert 28 days approx.
· Real toilet or shower- less than 6
· Longest time without bowel movement – 4 days
· Longest stretch without human contact – almost 4 days and 1300km. 5 cars total in 7 days across Great Vic Desert.
· Gear weight on body – 25-30 kg
· Total km in deserts 5909km approx.
· Weight loss – almost 10kg
My last night in the desert. I think my face says it all.